Thursday 30 September 2010

Traffic and Driving

We didn't consider renting a car in Iran for two main reasons:
Firstly, credit cards don't work here because of US banking sanctions which means that there is no developed car-rental business.
Secondly, local transport is incredibly inexpensive - the 8.5 hour bus journey from Kerman to Shiraz cost less than a fiver. And taxis are also quite cheap - the most we have paid is US$5, and that was for a half-hour journey across town.

However, we have found that there is a third reason, and probably the best, which we were totally unaware of.

The driving is the worst I have seen anywhere.
Ever.

Firstly there seems to be no MOT equivalent, so incredibly ancient vehicles are happily cruising around looking as if they will fall apart any minute.
Secondly there seem to be no rules - or at least none that anyone pays any attention to. So, driving at night without lights seems to be acceptable, obeying traffic lights seems to be optional, and ignoring pedestrian crossings seems to be compulsory.

Virtually all Iranians we have had any contact with seem to be friendly and generous, but something seems to change when they get in a car. There is absolutely zero routine courtesy or generosity. The main attitude seems to be to never give an inch and to take whatever you can.
So if there is nothing actually blocking the way a car will turn right at a T-junction without bothering about what might be coming along the road he is turning into - he has the space and it is up to the car not yet in the space to take evasive action. Similarly in traffic - a car will take any space it can get to edge its way forward - regardless of the consequences for other vehicles. They have forcing down to a fine art.
And this applies to women as well as men.
And the attitude is the same towards pedestrians - there is zero consideration given to anyone trying to cross the road - whether on a pedestrian crossing or not. So the only way to cross is to step out and force vehicles to stop because their only alternative is to hit you. If they have an alternative, such as veering to pass just in front of you - they will take it. We are getting used to it now but still do it with care. We have noticed that locals simply step out more or less without looking - trusting that cars will make the effort not to hit them.

This disregard for pedestrians continues on the pavement - motor cyclists consider that it is also their space and will sound their horns to get pedestrians to make way. They also park their bikes on the pavement.
And the only reason cars are also not on the pavement is that there are usually bollards to prevent them. Where there are no bollards, there are cars on the pavement.

Having said all that, this situation seems to be perfectly acceptable to everyone. We have not seen a single instance of people getting irritated or irate - either drivers or pedestrians. So I guess it works for them.

I'd love to see their accident statistics though.

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