Kerman is another town on the route east. Not terribly inspiring, but a base for several trips out to places of interest nearby - which we will do tomorrow.
Last evening in the hotel we got talking to a man in the lobby - he was watching football on the TV (Iran 3 Bahrain 0 since you ask) and when I expressed some interest he started chatting. When he found we were english (it's easier than trying to explain welsh - they just don't understand) he said " Ah - I love Gulliver's Travels". You really couldn't make it up.............
Turns out he grew up in a small village and his english is self-taught - and he has probably the widest vocabulary we have come across - and he worked as a translator/interpreter for various US companies before the revolution. He turned down the offer to relocate to US and later worked teaching english.
He also gave the name and number of a friend of his in Shiraz who could act as a guide for us when we visit Persepolis next week.
The main reason for coming to Kerman is a part of the nearby desert called Kaluts. We arranged for a car and driver for the day and went there via a place called Mahan where there is a huge garden with tiered pools and waterfalls etc - all fed via the qanats I mentioned in a previous post. The garden is surrounded by fruit orchards and the whole is enclosed by a high mud-brick wall probably about a mile in circumference. And beyond that is arid desert. Quite something to see.
The driver was helpful - stopping to show us various other items of interest - mainly water-related - vast cisterns etc.
But the Kaluts was the main event - a huge area of desert containing wierd natural sandstone structures. A bit like Monument Valley only with structures on a smaller scale. We left the driver and went for a long walk across the desert - there was no-one else around and the sense of isolation/solitude was striking.
Spectacular, and well worth the journey to get there.
The driver also stopped at a nearby caravanserai - an unused one that has simply been abandoned, probably a very long time ago. It was a vast place - probably around 200yds x 200 yds enclosed by a high mud-brick wall with watchtowers at each corner - beautifully made with decorative brickwork. There were rooms along one side - I counted 10 groups each of 7 rooms - and a huge space outside for the animals. And down the middle of the whole thing was the qanat water supply - still flowing with clean fresh water. Again, we were the only people there - which helps in imagining how it must have been in its heyday.
That evening we went for a wander through the bazaar and came upon a teahouse which was located in the premises of a former hammam - a wonderful old place with beautiful domes and tiling. And there was a band playing traditional music which gave a great atmosphere to the place. We only popped in for a cup of tea and stayed about an hour and a half.
We got talking to a man who had been taught english in recent years by his daughter. He was a pistachio farmer - he said looking after the trees and harvesting takes about 6 months of the year and the other 6 months he takes off. Nice. He volunteered that he is only a nominal muslim and never bothers with prayers or mosque - and has brought up his children the same. However, his wife is very devout and does the prayers several times a day. He was most happy to tell us that he goes abroad on holiday most years - his favourite destination is Bangkok - we asked him what he liked about Thailand and he said it was the drinking and the dancing. We asked how his wife enjoyed that - he gleefully replied that she stays at home and prays or goes to Mecca.
Today we moved on to Shiraz - a bus journey of eight and a half hours. The scenery en route was again spectacular - enormous deserts and several high mountain ranges to cross.
Just before writing this I googled to see how big Iran is compared with UK - turns out Iran is nearly 7 times as big, but with a population about the same.
We arrived in Shiraz just as a thunderstorm was threatening - and for the first time we had a bit of difficulty finding a hotel. Our first choice turned out to be a bit unsavoury so we went in search of others. Fortunately there are several very close so we dodged the raindrops and now we are the proud occupiers of a two bedroomed apartment in downtown Shiraz. This seems to be the most like a european city we have visited but we haven't seen much yet - it was getting dark as we arrived and we waited for the storm to pass before venturing out. It turned out to be a brief but violent thunder/lightning affair with heavy rain.
And now we are off in search of dinner.
More of Shiraz next time.
Last evening in the hotel we got talking to a man in the lobby - he was watching football on the TV (Iran 3 Bahrain 0 since you ask) and when I expressed some interest he started chatting. When he found we were english (it's easier than trying to explain welsh - they just don't understand) he said " Ah - I love Gulliver's Travels". You really couldn't make it up.............
Turns out he grew up in a small village and his english is self-taught - and he has probably the widest vocabulary we have come across - and he worked as a translator/interpreter for various US companies before the revolution. He turned down the offer to relocate to US and later worked teaching english.
He also gave the name and number of a friend of his in Shiraz who could act as a guide for us when we visit Persepolis next week.
The main reason for coming to Kerman is a part of the nearby desert called Kaluts. We arranged for a car and driver for the day and went there via a place called Mahan where there is a huge garden with tiered pools and waterfalls etc - all fed via the qanats I mentioned in a previous post. The garden is surrounded by fruit orchards and the whole is enclosed by a high mud-brick wall probably about a mile in circumference. And beyond that is arid desert. Quite something to see.
 |
| Outside.......... |
 |
| .................and inside |
The driver was helpful - stopping to show us various other items of interest - mainly water-related - vast cisterns etc.
But the Kaluts was the main event - a huge area of desert containing wierd natural sandstone structures. A bit like Monument Valley only with structures on a smaller scale. We left the driver and went for a long walk across the desert - there was no-one else around and the sense of isolation/solitude was striking.
Spectacular, and well worth the journey to get there.
The driver also stopped at a nearby caravanserai - an unused one that has simply been abandoned, probably a very long time ago. It was a vast place - probably around 200yds x 200 yds enclosed by a high mud-brick wall with watchtowers at each corner - beautifully made with decorative brickwork. There were rooms along one side - I counted 10 groups each of 7 rooms - and a huge space outside for the animals. And down the middle of the whole thing was the qanat water supply - still flowing with clean fresh water. Again, we were the only people there - which helps in imagining how it must have been in its heyday.
That evening we went for a wander through the bazaar and came upon a teahouse which was located in the premises of a former hammam - a wonderful old place with beautiful domes and tiling. And there was a band playing traditional music which gave a great atmosphere to the place. We only popped in for a cup of tea and stayed about an hour and a half.
We got talking to a man who had been taught english in recent years by his daughter. He was a pistachio farmer - he said looking after the trees and harvesting takes about 6 months of the year and the other 6 months he takes off. Nice. He volunteered that he is only a nominal muslim and never bothers with prayers or mosque - and has brought up his children the same. However, his wife is very devout and does the prayers several times a day. He was most happy to tell us that he goes abroad on holiday most years - his favourite destination is Bangkok - we asked him what he liked about Thailand and he said it was the drinking and the dancing. We asked how his wife enjoyed that - he gleefully replied that she stays at home and prays or goes to Mecca.
Today we moved on to Shiraz - a bus journey of eight and a half hours. The scenery en route was again spectacular - enormous deserts and several high mountain ranges to cross.
Just before writing this I googled to see how big Iran is compared with UK - turns out Iran is nearly 7 times as big, but with a population about the same.
We arrived in Shiraz just as a thunderstorm was threatening - and for the first time we had a bit of difficulty finding a hotel. Our first choice turned out to be a bit unsavoury so we went in search of others. Fortunately there are several very close so we dodged the raindrops and now we are the proud occupiers of a two bedroomed apartment in downtown Shiraz. This seems to be the most like a european city we have visited but we haven't seen much yet - it was getting dark as we arrived and we waited for the storm to pass before venturing out. It turned out to be a brief but violent thunder/lightning affair with heavy rain.
And now we are off in search of dinner.
More of Shiraz next time.
Hi Dave,
ReplyDeletehere's a link to a photo that will make you forget all about alcohol deprivation. On the other hand, you may need a stiff drink before looking at it.....
love, Mary x
http://www.guardian.co.uk/theguardian/2010/sep/26/ann-widdecombe-strictly-dancing